Minggu, 20 Mei 2012

PJU mandiri untuk masyarakat

Semakin susahnya pelayanan pemerintah memberikan pasilitas PJU telah mendorong karsa dan usaha mereka untuk merencanakan dan  mengadakannya. 
Berikut PJU ini salah satu pilihan masyarakat untuk mewujudkan PJU MANDIRI, artinya benar-benar lepas ketergantungan kepada dinas pemerintahan  yang seharusnya menanganinya.   Mandiri dari mulai design, bahan, energi, biaya dan pemeliharaannya.
Biaya pengadaan PJU mandiri masyarakat ini beragam, ada yang paling murah sekitar Rp 2.400.000 (dua juta empat ratus ribu rupiah) sudah terpasang di tembok gang atau tiang sudah ada seperti tiang listrik dan bangunan.   Lampu yang digunakan adalah Lampu LED 35W.  Cahaya yang dihasilkan setara dengan lampu merkuri 125-150Watt.  Rekening listrik setiap bulannya tidak akan sampai Rp 10.000 (sepuluh ribu rupiah) sehingga dapat disambung langsung ke rumah atau pos kamling.

Minggu, 17 Mei 2009

How to Build Solar Power System


Solar is universal and will work virtually anywhere, however some locations are better than others. Irradiance is a measure of the sun's power available at the surface of the earth and it averages about 1000 watts per square meter. With typical crystalline solar cell efficiencies around 14-16%, that means we can expect to generate about 140-160W per square meter of solar cells placed in full sun. Insolation is a measure of the available energy from the sun and is expressed in terms of "full sun hours" (i.e. 4 full sun hours = 4 hours of sunlight at an irradiance level of 1000 watts per square meter). Obviously different parts of the world receive more sunlight from others, so they will have more "full sun hours" per day. The solar insolation zone map on the right will give you a general idea of the "full sun hours per day" for your location.


How much will a system cost for my 2000 square foot home?
A3: Unfortunately there is no per square foot "average" since the cost of a system actually depends on your daily energy usage and how many full sun hours you receive per day; And if you have other sources of electricity. To accurately size a system to meet your needs, we need to know how much energy you use per day. If your home is connected to the utility grid, simply look at your monthly electric bill. Using this information, your authorized Kyocera solar Dealers can design a system to meet you needs.

Can I use all of my normal 120/240 VAC appliances?
A4: Maybe. Many older homes were not designed or built with energy efficiency in mind. When you purchase and install a renewable energy system for your home, you become your own power company so every kWh of energy you use means more equipment (and hence more money) is required to meet your energy needs. Any appliances that operate at 240 VAC (such as electric water heaters, cook-stoves, furnaces and air conditioners) are impractical loads to run on solar. You should consider using alternatives such as LP or natural gas for water/space heating or cooking, evaporative cooling instead of compressor based AC units and passive solar design in your new home construction if possible. Refrigeration and lighting are typically the largest 120 VAC energy consumers in a home (after electric heating loads) and these two areas should be looked at very carefully in terms of getting the most energy efficient units available. Great strides have been made in the past 5 years towards improving the efficiency of electric refrigerators/freezers. Compact fluorescent lights use a quarter to a third of the power of an incandescent light for the same lumen output and they last ten times longer. These fluorescent lights are now readily available at your local hardware or discount store. The rule of thumb in the renewable energy industry is that for every dollar you spend replacing your inefficient appliances, you will save three dollars in the cost of a renewable energy system to run them. So you can see that energy conservation is crucial and can really pay off when considering a renewable energy system.

What components do I need for a grid-tie system?
A5: Grid-tie systems are inherently simpler than either grid-tie with battery back-up or stand-alone solar systems. In fact, other than safety disconnects, mounting structures and wiring a grid-tie system is just solar modules and a grid-tie inverter! Today's sophisticated grid-tie inverters incorporate most of the components needed to convert the direct current form the modules to alternating current, track the maximum power point of the modules to operate the system at peak efficiencies and terminate the grid connection if grid power is interrupted form the utility.



What components do I need?
A6: There are many components that make up a complete solar system, but the 4 main items are: solar modules, charge controller(s), batteries and inverter(s). The solar modules are physically mounted on a mount structure (see question 7) and the DC power they produce is wired through a charge controller before it goes on to the battery bank where it is stored. The two main functions of a charge controller are to prevent the battery from being overcharged and eliminate any reverse current flow from the batteries back to the solar modules at night. The battery bank stores the energy produced by the solar array during the day for use at anytime of day or night. Batteries come in many sizes and grades. The inverter takes the DC energy stored in the battery bank and inverts it to 120 VAC to run your AC appliances.



What type of solar module mounting structure should I use?
A7: There are four basic types of mount structures: roof/ground, top-of-pole, side-of-pole and tracking mounts, each having their own pros and cons. For example roof mount structures typically keep the wire run distances between the solar array and battery bank to a minimum, which is good. But they also require roof penetrations in multiple locations (a potential source of leakage) and they require an expensive ground fault protection (GFP- device to satisfy article 690-5 of the National Electrical Code- NEC). On the other hand, ground mounted solar arrays require fairly precise foundation setup, are more susceptible to theft/vandalism and excessive snow accumulation at the bottom of the array. Next are top-of-pole mounts which are relatively easy to install (you sink a 2-6 inch diameter SCH40 steel pole up to 4-6 feet in the ground with concrete). Make sure that the pole is plumb and mount the solar modules and rack on top of the pole. Top-of-pole mounts reduce the risk of theft/vandalism (as compared to a ground mount). They are also a better choice for cold climates because snow slides off easily. Side of pole mounts are easy to install, but are typically used for small numbers of solar modules (1-4) for remote lighting systems where there already is an existing pole to attach them to. Last but not least are the trackers, which increase the daily number of full sun hours and are used for solar water pumping applications. Trackers are extremely effective in the summer time when water is needed the most. In the northern U.S., typical home energy usage peaks in the winter when a tracker mount makes very little difference as compared to any type of fixed mount (roof, ground or top-of-pole). In this situation, having more modules on a less expensive fixed mount will serve you better in the winter than fewer modules on a tracker. However, if you are in the southern U.S. and your energy usage peaks in the summer, then a tracker may be beneficial to match the time of your highest energy consumption with a tracking solar array's maximum energy output.

How Solar Generate Electricity

How do solar cells generate electricity?
A1: Photovoltaics or PV for short can be thought of as a direct current (DC) generator powered by the sun. When light photons of sufficient energy strike a solar cell, they knock electrons free in the silicon crystal structure forcing them through an external circuit (battery or direct DC load), and then returning them to the other side of the solar cell to start the process all over again. The voltage output from a single crystalline solar cell is about 0.5V with an amperage output that is directly proportional to cell's surface area (approximately 7A for a 6 inch square multicrystalline solar cell). Typically 30-36 cells are wired in series (+ to -) in each solar module. This produces a solar module with a 12V nominal output (~17V at peak power) that can then be wired in series and/or parallel with other solar modules to form a complete solar array to charge a 12, 24 or 48 volt battery bank.

Solar Power System Components

Mounting Structures
There are many different ways to mount solar modules, each with its own pros and cons. Examples include ground mounts, side-of-pole mounts, top-of-pole mounts, and trackers. Standard mounting structures are manufactured from high-quality anodized aluminum, providing excellent strength, light weight and corrosion resistance.

Controllers
The main function of a controller or regulator is to fully charge a battery without permitting overcharge or reverse current flow at night. If a solar array is connected to lead-acid batteries with no overcharge protection, battery life will be compromised. Simple controllers contain a relay that opens the charging circuit, terminating the charge at a pre-set high voltage and, once a pre-set low voltage is reached, closes the circuit again, allowing charging to continue. More sophisticated controllers utilize pulse-width modulation (PWM) or maximum power-point tracking (MPPT) to assure the battery is being fully charged in the most efficient manner.

Batteries
Batteries are a key component in a grid-tie with backup or a stand alone renewable energy system -- one that all other components rely on. With simple monthly and quarterly maintenance procedures, your batteries should last a long time. We offer gel, AGM, nicad, and flooded lead-acid batteries.

Inverters
Today's inverters are very efficient and reliable.

Some PV systems are designed to run DC loads exclusively and so not need an inverter, however an inverter is necessary in any PV system in which you want to run AC applications and tools, or if you are intending to interface your PV system with the Utility.

Most grid-tie inverters are simple machines that are dedicated to converting the DC current from a solar array into AC current and feeding it into the utility grid.

Where you begin to see a huge variety of inverter types is when you start to shop for grid-tie with battery back-up or stand-alone inverters. At this point inverters tend to be made to address specific markets and tasks. A good place to start your research on inverters would be the Inverter section of our catalog.

Power Panels
Power Panels are a factory-assembled power conditioning center. These include but are not limited to, inverters, controllers and safety disconnect equipment. The advantages of buying a Power Panel are many and include the following:
  • Easy electrical inspections: Power Panels are ETL listed as a package.
  • No hours wasted on the job site assembling separate components and running to the electrical supply for that one part that you forgot.
  • No flexible conduit, your jobs have that professional look.
  • Factory tested and quality assured.
Kyocera Solar, Inc. is an ETL listed assembly center. If you can imagine it, we can build it for you.


Basic Electricity

The Basics of Electricity

Before purchasing a photovoltaic system, it is a good idea to have a basic understanding of electricity. Simple familiarity with basic electrical terms and concepts will enable you to better understand your renewable energy system and use it with confidence.

The building blocks of an electrical vocabulary are voltage, amperage, resistance, watts and watt-hours. Electricity can simply be thought of as the flow of electrons (amperage) through a copper wire under electrical pressure (voltage) and is analogous to the flow of water through a pipe. If we think of copper wire in an electrical circuit as the pipe, then voltage is equivalent to pressure (psi) and amperage is equivalent to flow rate (gpm).

To continue with our electricity to water analogy, a battery stores energy much as a water tower stores water. Since a column of water 2.31 feet tall produces 1 psi at the base, the taller the water tower the higher the pressure you get at the base. As you can see from the picture to the right, the mushroom shape design of a water tower allows it to provide a large volume of water to end users at between 40-60 psi. Once drained below 40 psi which occurs near the neck of the tower, continued water usage will rapidly deplete the water supply at an ever decreasing pressure. Although a 12 volt battery is not physically shaped like a water tower, it has most of its stored electricity available between 12 volts to 12.7 volts. When drained below 12 volts, little amperage remains and the battery voltage will decrease rapidly.

In a simple system, a power source like a solar module provides the voltage which pushes the amperage through a conductor (wire) and on through a load that offers resistance to the current flow which in turn consumes power (watts). Power is measured in watts and is the product of voltage multiplied by amperage. Energy is power (watts) used over a given time frame (hours) and is measured in watt-hours or kilowatt-hours (1 kilowatt-hour equals 1000 watt-hours). For example, a 100 watt light left on for 10 hours each night will consume 1000 watt-hours or 1 kilowatt-hour of energy. A kilowatt-hour is the unit of energy measurement that the utility company bills you for each month. Electrical appliances are rated in terms of how many watts (or amps) they draw when turned on. To determine how much energy a particular appliance uses each day, you need to multiply the wattage by the number of hours used each day. See the load evaluation sheet on page 15 for more information on electrical load calculations.

When wiring solar modules or batteries together in an renewable energy system, remember that connecting two of them in series (+ to -) doubles their voltage output, but keeps their amperage (or amp-hour capacity) the same. Connecting two of them in parallel (+ to +, - to -) doubles their amperage output (or amp-hour capacity), but keeps their voltage output the same. For example, most solar modules have a 12V nominal output so you would need to wire four of them in series (+ to -) to charge a 48V battery bank. The amperage output from these four solar modules in series is the same as that of a single solar module. Similarly, you would need to wire four 6V 350 amp-hour (AH) L-16 size batteries in series (+ to -) to configure them for 24V operation and then connect two strings of four batteries in parallel (+ to +, - to -) to obtain a 700 amp-hour capacity battery. See Appendix F for more information on battery wiring.

The discussion above of voltage and amperage leads to the subject of wire size. The amount of current that you can send through any electrical circuit depends on three things; the size or gauge (AWG) of the wire being used, the voltage of the system and the one way wire run distance. All wire (Cu and Al) has a listed resistance per 1000 feet with a larger gauge wire having a lower resistance value than a smaller one. The longer the distance and lower the voltage, the larger gauge wire you will need to use to minimize the voltage drop.

As a "rule of thumb", if your solar array consists of 4 or more, 60 watt or larger solar modules and is 50 feet or more away from the battery bank you should consider setting your system up at 24 or 48V instead of 12V. See the voltage drop tables in Appendix B at the back of the catalog for more information on wire sizing for 12, 24 or 48 VDC.




Solar Array Sizing

Use the worksheet below to determine your solar requirements. We have included an example column and a column for your system.

  1. Locate your site on the average yearly insolation map in the FAQ section and list the nearest figures.
  2. Take the daily corrected total loads in watt hours from your load evaluation sheet.
  3. Divide line 2 by line 1. This is the number of watts we need to generate per hour of full sun.
  4. Find actual power produced by your selected module and enter. (rated amperage x battery voltage during charging).
    Example: Using KC120's, one module produces 7.1 amps. 13 volts is a common charging voltage for 12 volt systems. Actual power = amperage x charging voltage.
  5. Divide line 3 by line 4. The result is the number of modules required for your system. When rounding this number, remember that sets of 2 modules are needed for a 24 volt system, sets of 4 for 48 etc.


Example Actual Figures
Step yearly average yearly average
1 5.0 sun hours per day
2 1000 watt-hours per day
3 200 watts
4 (7.1x13) =92.3
5 2.17

Sabtu, 16 Mei 2009

Solar Home Power System



Kyocera's MyGen™ Grid-Connected Systems are convenient and comprehensive photovoltaic (PV) power equipment packages designed specifically for residential applications. There are five packages to choose from, ranging from 1440W STC to 5040W STC, that use the latest Kyocera KD180 modules in a variety of PV array configurations. Each package is pre-engineered to optimize system performance and meet applicable NEC codes and requirements. All major PV system components, disconnects and grounding equipment are included providing everything you need to generate your own electricity.

Solar Panel By Kyocera from Japan


Kyocera is a pioneering company in the solar energy industry which first began developing solar cells in 1975. Over 30 years of experience have allowed the company to master all stages of production at the highest level – from processing raw materials, making wafers and solar cells to module installation. The result of Kyocera’s years of experience and fully integrated production process is superior quality and long product life. Kyocera has also started construction of a new production facility for solar cells in Shiga Prefecture, Japan, which will contribute to achieving plans to increase the cell production output from the current 300 Megawatts per year to 650 Megawatts per year by 2012.